Winchester Cathedral
Yesterday I went to Winchester Cathedral. It is big. It's the longest cathedral in England. And it shows. It's mostly this style that's almost Gothic but not quite. And the South Transept is Norman (Romanesque), so that was cool to see. The architecture of that place always draws the eyes upwards. It was quite magnificent. The sort of place that draws you to pray.
There is a lot of art lurking about in it too, with signs telling what everything is. A few tombs of bishops, as well. And little chapels, one of which was set aside specifically for prayer. It has a very nice statue of a Pieta in it.
So I wandered about a bit, from the nave up to the quire. The quire is the bit where the choir sits and where the Holy Table is. Behind the Holy Table is the screen. The cathedral folks moan a little about the Dissolution of the Monasteries during the Reformation, and how sad it is that the original statues from the screen are lost. All we have now are Victorian replacements. Except that I saw part of the statue of Mary Magdalene, and it was painted a lot in vibrant colours.
Too many vibrant colours = gaudy. The modern English artistic sensibilities would shudder if they saw the screen in its former "glory".
That said, iconoclasts were a bit of a shame. They also destroyed a series of statues on the back of the screen (the quire isn't at the very back as it is in a normal church--behind it are a few chapels and the presbytery and the ways into the transepts). These have been replace by modern icons in a Byzantine style.
I gaped at the magnificent screen, then wandered out the North (left) side of the quire to what is apparently the presbytery. And there was a display, "Cracking the Code." Apparently Winchester Cathedral figures in
The Da Vinci Code, so they're "cashing in" on it. But what they've done is really cool.
They talk about some of the claims made in the book/film on these big boards in the presbytery, then explain stuff about John the Evangelist always being portrayed in such a manner, with visual examples. It ends with talking about the only "secret" Winchester Cathedral has--the mystery of the Presence of Christ at Holy Communion!
Then on to stage two of "Cracking the Code," where you are sent out to find a few pieces of art in the cathedral that relate to the themes and see them for yourselves, with some comments from art historians in a little leaflet (you find St. John the Evangelist, the Star of David [Seal of Solomon] and a wall painting of St. Mary Magdalene). Following this is stage three.
Stage three is an invitation to enter into the mystery of Christ. First you walk a labyrinth they've constructed out of wood in the North Transept. Now, I've always been wary of labyrinths. But apparently they were built in the Middle Ages for pilgrims who couldn't make it to Jerusalem because it was too dangerous. So I went on it, asking the Holy Spirit to come into and praying and all that sort of stuff. It's like a physical prayer, the labyrinth is.
Next, the leaflet invites you descend into the crypt, where there is a statue called Sounding 2. It holds its hands cupped close to its chest. Stand like the statue and ask yourself what you hold close to it.
Then look at the Pieta. I looked from afar, because I didn't want to bother the man praying. Just as St. John is portrayed feminine, in this art the Blessed Virgin is portrayed a little masculine. Why would the artist do this?
After that, which asked some other questions which I thought good to get people to consider their spiritual state, I wandered a little. Then upstairs in the South Transept. First, the Triforium Gallery, which is all that remains of the gallery of the original Norman cathedral. They've filled it with artefacts, like a museum--bits of ruined statues, mechanical angels, that sort of thing. It was interesting and taught a lot about the history of the cathedral.
Then I saw The Winchester Bible. It took over 20 years to complete. It's in four volumes and brilliantly illuminated. It was beautiful. I like it a lot. (I want one.)
Then I wandered back outside.
The cathedral was excellent. It was truly a place to be able to go and worship God and join with the saints who have been worshipping there for the past 800 years. I didn't feel like I was in a tourist attraction or museum. I felt like they had done a good job for visitors to understand the cathedral as a place of prayer and worship, to be able to minister to us as we wander about in its ancient space.
Once outside, I wandered over to the cathedral bookshop. I bought some postcards and a little book by Nicky Gumbel (of Alpha Course fame) about
The Da Vinci Code's claims about Christ. In fact, along with cathedral souvenirs and cute stuff old ladies would like, their was a selection of cathedral-style sacred music and a bunch of books by authors like Brian D McLaren, Lee Strobel, Adrian Plass. The cathedral actually does have a ministry.
So I didn't mind having to give them #4 to be able to see inside this place of worship.
Posted by mjjhoskin
at 10:50 PM EEST